When it comes down to it, wallpapering is pretty easy and really good fun. Wallpapering is a quick, creative way of giving your home a new lease of life. You’ll find advice below on preparations and wallpapering. You’ll be up and running before you know it!
Duro makes wallpapers from two different materials. Our modern wallpapers are printed on QuickUp material which can be applied quickly and easily as you apply the paste directly to the wall. Our traditional wallpapers are made of paper that’s applied in the traditional way (apply the paste to the wall, leave to soak for 5 minutes). But choose your wallpapers according to their colour and design. Choose something you like. Take a look at our wallpapers, try our Wallpaper a room function and let yourself be inspired by our environmental photos under Inspiration.
Amount of wallpaper required
Duro wallpaper rolls are 53 cm wide and 10 m long. With a ceiling height of 2.40 m, you’ll get about 4 lengths per roll, or about 3 lengths if you need to align the pattern of the wallpaper (a length is a piece of wallpaper from floor to ceiling and the width of the roll). The amount of wallpaper you’ll need depends on the width and height of the wall, and whether the room has doors and windows. It’s always a good idea to order an extra roll to be on the safe side, as this way of calculating the amount of wallpaper required is only an estimate (note that we don’t take into account windows, doors, etc.).
Sample calculation: if your room is 3×4 m in size, the perimeter will be 14 m (3+3+4+4) so you’ll need about 7 rolls. You can expect to use more rolls of wallpaper if you have to align a pattern.
A spirit level, plum or scissors on a string – to cut straight, beautiful lengths A pencil – for making notes and marks on the wallpaper A folding rule – so that you’re up to the mark A steel edge ruler with a cutting block – so that you can cut in straight lines The right wallpaper paste – you can find a recommendation on the label A roller/brush – used to apply the paste walls, including places that are hard to reach with a roller A sponge and clean water – used to wipe away any surplus paste on the wallpaper A wallpaper knife with additional blades – use sharp blades so that you don’t tear the wallpaper A wallpaper smoothing tool – for smoothing out QuickUp wallpapers A wallpaper brush– for smoothing out air bubbles if you’re applying a paper wallpaper A ladder/pallet/chair A papering table – a straightforward table made of corrugated cardboard, available from Duro
The preparations you carry out are absolutely crucial to the end results. This step varies slightly depending on what surface you’re going to be wallpapering. However, you must always make sure the surface is even (in terms of both the surface itself and the colour) and dry before applying wallpaper. Our lining wallpaper Easy Cover Select is a handy alternative to skimming less even surfaces. For even more uneven surfaces – as with fibreglass fabric, for example – we recommend using Easy Cover. Before you start wallpapering, there are a few things you need to remember in order to make things easier for you and make wallpapering fun:
1. Check that the batch number (serial number) is the same on all rolls before you open them 2. Check that you have the right tools at home. See the list above for tips on which tools you might need 3. Disconnect the power supply to the room where you’ll be wallpapering, then undo the covers around power sockets and switches 4. Remove skirtings and mouldings. Carefully use a tool to prise out the mouldings. 5. Remove any picture hooks and anything else on the walls. (Fill any holes.)
Lining wallpaper – avoid filling
Our lining wallpapers Easy Cover and Easy Cover Select provide a smooth surface for wallpapering and painting – quickly and easily. The preparations you carry out are absolutely crucial to the end results. Lining wallpapers replace skimming of fibreglass fabric and other uneven surfaces, and they’re very easy to put up.
Our Easy Cover lining wallpaper provides smooth surfaces for wallpapering and painting, quickly and easily. This is an excellent alternative to skimming uneven surfaces, and you won’t need a base coat thanks to its hundred per cent optical coverage. Easy Cover is a lining wallpaper which replaces skimming of fibreglass fabric and other uneven surfaces, and it’s very easy to put up. The adhesive is rolled onto the wall, then you just apply the lining wallpaper directly from the roll. It’s so easy that you don’t need to cut it to the right length. The smooth, light surface of Easy Cover Select provides a good basis for wallpapering or painting.
Recommended adhesive type: Non-woven adhesive. One roll covers about 10 m².
Roll length: 10 m Width: 100 cm Pattern height: – Pattern matching: – Washability: Highly washable Light resistance: Very good light resistance.
Our Easy Cover Select lining wallpaper provides smooth surfaces for wallpapering and painting, quickly and easily. This is an excellent alternative to skimming uneven surfaces. Easy Cover Select is a lining wallpaper which replaces skimming of fibreglass fabric and other uneven surfaces, and it’s very easy to put up. The adhesive is rolled onto the wall, then you just apply the lining wallpaper directly from the roll. It’s so easy that you don’t need to cut it to the right length. The smooth, light surface of Easy Cover Select provides a good basis for wallpapering or painting. You can use fewer coats of paint when painting over this lining wallpaper.
Recommended adhesive type: Non-woven adhesive. One roll covers about 6 m².
Roll length: 10.00 m Width: 60 cm Pattern height: – Pattern matching: – Washability: Highly washable Light resistance: Very good light resistance.
Common symbols when wallpapering
No pattern matching Measure the width and height of the walls to find out how much wallpaper you’re going to need. With a normal room height of 2.4 metres, one roll of wallpaper is enough for four lengths if you don’t have to match the pattern.
Straight pattern matching Remember that the specified size must be added to the ceiling height for each length. One roll of wallpaper with pattern matching is usually enough for three lengths.
Offset pattern matching Remember that the specified size must be added to the ceiling height for each length. One roll of wallpaper with pattern matching is usually enough for three lengths.
QuickUp wallpapers Paste directly to the wall and hang the length. This wallpaper does not expand or shrink and gives a result with no visible joins.
Highly washable (all Duro wallpapers) Can be washed using soap and water..
Excellent light resistance (all Duro wallpapers) The pigments in our wallpapers are of high quality and will last for several years.
How to avoid mistakes when wallpapering
Using the right tools will make life easier for you. Make sure you have wallpapering tools to hand before you get started so that you can work smoothly and achieve the best results.
Don’t skimp on the preparations. The wall has to be even and dry before you start wallpapering so that you avoid any bubbles, prevent the wallpaper slipping off, and so forth.
Apply paste evenly to the wall to prevent air bubbles. The wallpaper label provides good pasting information that you can view.
Don’t get stressed. If you can, get someone to help you with the wallpapering. It’s both easier and more fun for you to do that, and two heads are better than one.
Frequently replace the blade in your wallpaper knife. It’s important for these blades to be sharp, otherwise they might tear the wallpaper and destroy it.
If your length of wallpaper is skewed, remove the entire length and start again from the beginning. If you try to turn the paper, you might stretch it.
Keep any unpasted rolls of wallpaper. Then you’ll have them to hand if you need to repair your wallpaper for any reason. Keep the label as well, just in case.
How do I calculate how many rolls I’ll need? Sample calculation: if your room is 3×4 m in size, the perimeter will be 14 m (3+3+4+4) so you’ll need about 7 rolls. You can expect to use more rolls of wallpaper if you have to align a pattern.
Are all wallpaper pastes just as good as each other, and do they work for all your wallpapers? Yes and no. The most important thing is to use a wallpaper paste designed for your wallpaper. The recommended paste type is always indicated on the wallpaper packaging. If you’re not sure, the staff in your store would be happy to help you find the right one.
How come my wallpaper joins are lifting? Probably because you haven’t used enough paste when applying the wallpaper. This allows the joins to dry out before you’ve put the wallpaper on the wall.
Why are my joins sliding apart? Either because you’ve used the wrong paste, or because somebody has tried to pull the wallpaper into place.
Why are there bubbles in my wallpaper? If there are bubbles in your wallpaper directly after putting it up, that’s completely normal. It takes about 24 hours to settle. But if they’re still there after that time, there may be several reasons for this.
You haven’t left it for the right amount of time.
The paste has dried in patches.
The surface layer of the wallpaper may be very dense (this requires a longer drying time).
The base isn’t very absorbent, which means the paste takes longer to dry.
The new paste is loosening the underlying wallpaper layer.
The temperature in the room is too low to allow the paste to dry properly, or else the wall may be too cold and damp.
Wallpapering with QuickUp wallpaper
1. When applying a QuickUp wallpaper (Non-Woven), paste is applied directly onto the wall over an area equivalent to the width of 2-3 lengths (approx. 1-1.5 m). Use a brush on areas that are hard to reach.2. Start from a door, window or corner. When you arrive at switches and sockets, turn off the power and undo the sockets. Cut the wallpaper to fit while it’s damp before putting switches and sockets back.3. Place the roll in the QuickUp box (tray) and pull up the first length. Hang it gently in position, high enough up to allow a small part of the length to project over the cornice (or similar) where you plan to cut the paper to fit. Check that the length is vertical using scissors hanging from a string, for example. Lift the wallpaper if it’s not straight. Don’t try to turn it. Bubbles may form if there’s no paste on one area or if the underlying wallpaper has come away from the wall. In this case, carefully lift the wallpaper and brush more paste onto the wall.
4. Smooth out the wallpaper from the centre using the wallpaper smoothing tool, moving outwards to remove the air bubbles. Take care at the edges so that you don’t get paste on the tool or the wallpaper. Quickly wipe away any paste on the front of the wallpaper using a sponge and clean water.
5. Allow the wallpaper to extend a few millimetres beyond the edges (floor and ceiling), then cut the wallpaper cleanly. Replace your knife blades frequently as a blunt blade will tear your wallpaper.
6. Put up the next length, edge to edge (don’t overlap the lengths). Make sure you align the pattern correctly to achieve the best results.
7. Lengths are cut lengthwise at corners. Paste just over one length around the corner. Allow the first part of the length to go 2 cm around the corner.
– Is it an inner corner? Put up the next length with an overlap into the corner, apply paste to the part of the wallpaper beneath the overlap. Wipe away any excess paste using the sponge.
– Is it an outer corner? Place the next length approx. 5 mm across onto the next wall to prevent it being pulled up if anyone brushes against it. Wipe away any excess paste using the sponge.
8. Air the room thoroughly. Wallpapers dry best at normal room temperature. Note: Non-woven material is permeable to moisture. Areas of moisture occurring during wallpapering will disappear when the wallpaper has dried (normally within 24 hours).
Wallpapering with paper wallpaper
1. Cut the paper wallpaper into lengths, taking into account alignment of the pattern, plus a few centimetres of excess at the top and bottom. Cut up to 10 lengths at a time. It’s a good idea to mark the cut lengths with an up arrow on the back to make sure you get the wallpaper the right way up. Then apply copious amounts of paste to the back of the wallpaper. Make sure you apply paste all the way up to the edges. It’s important to make sure you don’t get any paste on the wallpapering table, otherwise it may end up on the front of the next length! Then turn the length towards the middle so that the short ends meet with the pasted sides facing inwards. Leave the wallpaper to expand for just over 5 minutes.
2. Start wallpapering at a window to avoid shadows at the joins. Wallpaper about half the room until you arrive at a door or corner. Then start again from the other side of the window and wallpaper the rest. Always place the lengths in order, including over windows and doors. When you arrive at switches and sockets, turn off the power and undo the sockets. Cut the wallpaper to fit while it’s damp before putting switches and sockets back.
3. Fold out the upper half of the first length of wallpaper and hang it gently in position, a few centimetres above the cornice where you plan to cut the paper to fit. Check that the length is sitting straight using scissors hanging from a string, for example. Lift the wallpaper if it’s not straight. Don’t try to turn it.
4. Then fold out the lower half and attach it. Smooth the length using a brush in order to remove the air bubbles. Work from the middle of the wallpaper out towards the edges, and from ceiling to floor.
5. Cut the wallpaper cleanly at the skirting board and cornice. Replace your knife blades frequently as a blunt blade will tear your wallpaper. Immediately wipe away any paste on the front of the wallpaper using a sponge and clean water.
6. Put up the next length with a thread edge (approx. 2 mm overlap). Gaps may otherwise occur as the wallpaper will shrink slightly when it dries. Make sure you align the pattern correctly.
7. Lengths are cut lengthwise at corners. Paste and fold the pieces in the usual way. Allow the first part of the length to go 2 cm around the corner.
– Is it an inner corner? Put up the other part of the length, overlapping all the way into the corner. Wipe away any excess paste using the sponge.
– Is it an outer corner? Place the other part of the length approx. 5 mm across onto the next wall to prevent it being pulled up if anyone brushes against it (even if you don’t align the pattern). Wipe away any excess paste using the sponge.
8. Air the room thoroughly. Wallpapers dry best at normal room temperature.
Wallpapering with borders
Some of Duro’s more traditional collections offer a number of borders, primarily to preserve the contemporary feel of the home. It’s a good idea to have two people on hand when putting up borders as this simplifies matters considerably.
1. Measure where the border is to be positioned, and mark this with a pencil. Cut the lengths, and if necessary add pattern alignment. 2. If you want to apply the border to a freshly painted wall, wait for 14 days after painting the wall before putting up the border. 3. Apply the paste using a brush or narrow roller. Fold the border like a concertina and allow it to extend as instructed on the label. 4. Attach the first border at a corner, overlapping onto the next war by a centimetre or so. Flatten the border down using the wallpaper smoothing tool. 5. Place the next strip of border exactly at the angle of the corner. Check the pattern carefully if you’re pattern-matching.
NOTE: – Paper borders applied to paper wallpapers must be pasted using the same paste as the wallpaper. – Borders applied to vinyl wallpaper or painted surfaces must be pasted using wetroom paste or overlap paste.
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This is an estimated calculation, please note that it does not consider windows, doors, etc.
- - rounded up to -roll(s)